WHISK — Cookbooks at Volume

The blue glass bowl featured here belonged to my Greek Cypriot grandmother, Maria. It reminds me of sitting at her table eating feta, olives and the best sesame-coated biscuits ever, while the scent of slow-cooking food and spices particular to Cypriot cuisine permeated the air.

Ingredients at the ready for Louvana Me Marathos — budget conscious, with a delicious result!

TAVERNA: Recipes from a Cypriot kitchen by Georgina Hayden — reviewed by STELLA

I have a few Greek cookbooks, but this one I love the best. Partly, because it’s Cypriot cuisine and partly because I’ve become enamoured with several dishes from Taverna.  The one that had me hooked straight away was the Louvana Me Marathos (yellow split pea and wild fennel soup) - so delicious and hearty, especially with a poached egg on top (vegan without). Perfect for any time of the year, and I can recommend it for a hearty winter supper, as well as refreshing summer fare. The lemon gives it zing, while the creamy texture of the split peas and rice is the ultimate comfort eating.
My father made the best keftedes — soft and flavoursome — so I’m always looking to replicate the texture (in my own pescatarian way). Georgina Hayden’s Fish Keftedes in Mustard and Dill are both delicate, creamy and indulgent — and flexible. You can swap out the fish type and adjust the quantity without any major repercussions, and the dill can be swapped for fennel. There are several keftedes recipes — three vegetable (including aubergine, of course) and pork. There are the slow-baked lamb and moussaka dishes which look just like my Yaya’s cooking right down to the enamel dishes, as well as the familiar traditional sweet pastries. In Taverna, Hayden draws on these favourites but also brings a contemporary twist to many of the dishes, making them lighter and less time-consuming to make. If you have apples, make the simple cake Milopita. Oranges? Portokalopita — a delicious sticky citrus wonder with shredded filo and yoghurt. But my favourites in this book remain tilted towards the savoury and everyday. Greek Cypriot cuisine is notable for its blend of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern influences, with plenty of fish and vegetarian choices. From simple fare to feasts, this is a cookbook to enjoy for its recipes as well as Georgina Hayden’s island and family stories.